Pinewood Derby Hub Build Your Own

BUILD YOUR CAR - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

How-To Resources

Detailed books and guides are available at your local Scout Shop or at [insert hyperlink here], including the go-to guides listed here:

THE BASICS

Cub Scouts get in motion!

All you need is an official Pinewood Derby® car kit and your imagination. Inside the kit you'll find the wooden block, wheels, and axles – everything you need to get started.

Brainstorm with your adult mentor to come up with a design that's a fun challenge, but not too difficult to build. You'll need to know your pack's race rules and what awards you can shoot for, so you can be sure to meet the requirements and aim to be the Fastest, Most Original, Best Craftsmanship or other fine achievements.

FOLLOW THESE STEPS ON YOUR PATH TO GLORY!

  • Draw out some design ideas (using graph paper is helpful)
  • Sketch the outline of your chosen design on the wooden block (with the help of your mentor)
  • Cut out the car shape using woodworking tools (let your mentor help with the hard parts)
  • Use sandpaper to smooth the surface.
  • Paint your car and add decals available at the MCC Scout Shop.
  • Add the axles & wheels (Make sure they fit the car body correctly & that the wheels spin easily)
  • Add accessories if you'd like (remember to check your local rules)
  • Now you're ready to race!

10 STEPS TO GET YOU MOVING

Step 1 - Design your car's body

Choose your favorite design and outline it onto your paper template or graph paper. Be sure to maintain a width of 1-3/4 inches where the metal axle will be inserted. Outline the bare block of wood onto the paper. Keep the design simple enough to avoid overly detailed cutting.

Step 2 - Shape your car's body

a) Keep in mind the tools you have available, such as saws, drills and sanders, when formulating your design. Consider safety as well. Usually, the adult makes the major cuts with the power tools and then lets the youth file and sand.

b) Check that both axle grooves are at a perfect 90-degree angle to the car body. A car with untrue axles tends to steer to one side or the other and rub against the sides of the track, which slows it down.

c) Cut away the large sections of waste wood first before etching out the final design. This makes it easier to form the shape and details of your design. Have a definite plan and remember, you can't add wood back that you've taken off!

d) Do not forget to leave a place for weight if you need it. Weight may be placed anywhere as long as it is not taped on and does not exceed the official specifications.

Step 3 - Inspect the wheels

a) Only official wheels are acceptable.

b) Wheels can be sanded to remove surface imperfections, but the treads must be left flat.

c) Inspecting the wheels is important. Make sure all wheels roll freely and smoothly around the axle. Get a drill bit that fits just inside the wheel where the axle fits. This cleans out any roughness or burrs that cause wheels to not spin freely.

Step 4 - Insert axles

a) Check each axle for any burrs on the underside of the head.

b) So the wheels will run as freely as possible, place each axle in a hand-drill chuck to hold it steady, then smooth the burrs with a fine emery cloth or file.

c) To fine-tune your axles, polish them using a PWD High Speed Polishing Kit. These items can be purchased at the MCC Scout Shop

Step 5 – Paint

After shaping and sanding your car to your satisfaction, prime it, then sand it with fine sandpaper, and add additional coats of paint or a "skin." Don't glue any details on yet!

Step 6 - Install wheels and axles

Now you can put the axles and wheels on the car, but don't glue on the axles. Weigh your car, being sure to place the car and any accessories on the scale (driver, steering wheel, roll bar, etc.)

Step 7 - Add weights

a) The car may not weigh more than five ounces. For best speed results, get your car as close to that weight as possible.

b) If you do not have a scale, the U.S. Postal Service, or a supermarket, might weigh your car for you. Your pack leaders may have official scales available for you to use, and some Scout shops offer free weigh-ins (not considered an "official" weight for the race.)

c) Any added weight may not be taped on. The car can be hollowed out and weight inserted to build it up to the maximum weight, but it must be securely attached or built into the car body, so it won't fall off onto the track.

Step 8 - Test your car

a) Once the weight is securely mounted slip the wheels back on. Place the car on a long, flat surface and give it a gentle push. The car should travel in a straight line for a reasonable distance (five to ten feet.)

b) A Practice track may be available through your pack.

Step 9 - Lubricate your car (and be sure to check your pack's lube rules!)

a) Lube and mount the wheels permanently. Dry, fine powdered lube works best. Dust a little powdered lube in the hole where the axle is inserted, some on the axle where the wheel rides, and a little at the axle head.

b) Slide the axles and wheels onto the car and glue into place. Use an epoxy or non-resin glue, making sure to not get any on the surface of the axle where the wheel rides.

Step 10: Accessorize your car

Be sure any accessories are securely mounted on the car. Add stripes and decals – let your imagination fly!